Tips and Tricks for Selling Used PC Parts – Budget Series

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Are you thinking of selling some of your old PC hardware to help fund some shiny new parts? This guide should help you! If you are looking to just buy some great used hardware, take a look at the last video in the series in the cards above. Just like last time, the great F7 is here to give his thoughts and experiences, alongside my own.

First up we have to cover the obvious ones, postage costs and sellers frees. F7 will cover some of these in more detail later on in the video, but I want to touch on a few important points first. Seller fees only really apply to places like eBay, where not only can they charge you for listing your tech, especially if you use any of the “enhanced features”, but they’ll also take a full 10% of your sale price too, so keep that in mind.

You might also be charged fees by PayPal when selling through ebay, which is around 3.4 or 3.8% + 30 pence or cents depending on if you are in the UK or USA.

You can go with sites like Gumtree or Craigslist if you are in the USA, but those sites offer little to no protections meaning if someone tries to rip you off, you might be on your own, whereas while ebay is more expensive to use, it’s got some pretty sound buyer – and seller – protections.

Postage costs are also something to keep in mind. While you can list items with how much you expect postage to cost and have the buyer pay for it, it can be a deterrent for potential buyers who might end up going with the same item but from a seller that offered “free postage” – sometimes even if that option is more expensive!

When it comes to actually listing your item, especially through ebay, there are a number of options. You can set it as a standard auction, which many prefer to do. This means that it’s very much likely to sell at the end of your set time, but may not sell for the amount of money you were hoping for.

This can be remedied by the buy it now option, which allows you to set a price and just wait for someone to come along and buy it. This can take significantly longer to sell though, as many people would rather try their luck in auctions in the hopes of getting the same item cheaper.

A final option that’s available to either of the above is to add a “Best offer” option. This lets potential buyers offer lower than your buy it now price, or to close out the auction before it’s scheduled to finish. This can be a great way of getting an item sold quicker than you’ve listed it for, although does often mean less money for you. Both you and the potential buyer have 3 offers/counter offers available, so if you don’t agree after that, neither of you can offer each other anything else.

The final points from me are on pricing and expectations. When listing your part, make sure to take a look at how much the same or similar parts are selling for, and list yours at a similar or lower price. There is no point in trying to sell your r9 280 for its MSRP of £280, since no one in their right mind would buy it. When starting as an auction, there’s a debate on whether to set it at a price somewhat close to what you’d want for it, so if you want £100, you’d start it at £80, or whether you should always start at 0 and let the market decide.

The theory for the latter is that if you start at a high price, but no one has bid on it, it seems like it’s undesirable and not a good enough chance at a deal. By starting it at 0, you entice people in, then get a lot of activity which can help drive the price up to where you’d want it. Obviously, it’s up to you though.

Now I’m going to hand over to the brilliant F7 who’ll guide you through a few more points and tips.

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